Kilburn

KNOW YOUR PARISH – KILBURN

High and Low Kilburn lie 6 miles south east of Thirsk, 8 miles from Helmsley, 20 miles north of York. The nearest main roads are the A19 between Thirsk and York or the A170 from Thirsk to Scarborough on the east coast. This lovely North Yorkshire village can be easily found lying in a hollow below the huge White Horse which is cut into the side of the Hambleton Hills.

Kilburn has a long history. Traces of prehistoric man have been found in the district as too Roman, then settlement by the Scandinavian invaders which is well attested by the old local dialect and many place names ending in ‘by’, the usual Danish term to denote a farmstead. William the Conqueror arrived with the Normans and the first noted mention of the village can be found in the Domesday Book (1080-1086). The village has not changed much in size since that time—a mile long and half a mile wide; the Parish, of course, is much larger: it includes Oldstead, the “old stead” of the monks before they built Byland Abbey.

This period was marked by the building of many churches and the foundation of nearby religious houses such as Old and New Byland, Newbury Priory, and Rievaulx Abbey. Several places in the parish are named ‘park’ such as Sowerby Parks, Nether Park and West Park Farm which show these were within the hunting grounds for Norman and possibly later kings. Life in the north was frequently enlivened by land border disputes amongst the Norman overlords and raids from over the Scottish Border – note Scotch Corner, above Oldstead.

However, these were nothing compared to the arrival of the bubonic plague aptly named the Black Death in 1349. Two years later, the Statute of Labourers provided some relief when Kilburn’s taxation quota was greatly reduced showing that the epidemic must have heavily hit the small village population.

The next upheaval in the normal pattern of life came with the 16th century Reformation when the parish churches were stripped of their vestments and precious goods, monastic houses were looted and sold to laymen, then fell into ruin. Those who had worked for the abbeys were put out of work and often left homeless. Under the direction of Henry VIII, Kilburn was given to the Archbishop of York who became Lord of the Manor.

Little has so far been noted for the parish in this period but a Bishop’s Visitation Return (occasions when ministers and curates were asked to report on the morality of the clergy and their parishioners), gives a picture of the parish in 1743: ‘about 124 families (2 Quaker, 3 Papists, all the rest Church of England). No licensed or other meeting house; two little petty schools maintained by the parents of such as send their children to ‘em in both about 40. No almshouse, hospital or other charitable endowment, nor any lands or tenements left for repair of the church. I do not reside [here] as the Parsonage House being so bad, it is scarce habitable by the poorest tenant’. John Dealtary, curate, Richard Wilkinson ass. curate. (This report also included details of the assistant curate and number of services provided each year).

The lovely little Norman church of St Mary can be found in the centre of the village, close to the world- famous ‘ Mouse Factory ‘ which was established by the master carpenter, Robert Thompson. The church contains examples of many diligent craftsmen’s work who were employed by the Thompson families through the generations. These furnishings can be identified by the famous small mouse which was always hidden somewhere! Within the church is the small chapel of St Thomas which was very simply refurbished as a memorial to Robert Thompson 1876 – 1955.

A fine iron chest, made in Kilburn in 1854 contained the registers dating from 1575, churchwardens accounts (1759-1900), the Enclosure Award (1829), the Tithe Award (1847) showing unusual field names, and many other interesting parish records. The older registers and other historical documents etc are now in the safekeeping of North Yorkshire County Record Office at Northallerton.

On the walls of the church are several reminders that not all was easy for the local people and donations were given by those better off, two of which are repeated here: – Wood plaque. ‘James Coates by his will dated 12th November 1834 gave and bequeathed unto the Minister, Churchwardens and Overseers of the Poor of the township of Kilburn the sum of 10 pounds to the intent that such Minister, Churchwardens and Overseers for the time being apply the interest thereof towards the education of one poor boy belonging to the said township in the school at Kilburn to be from time to time to date nominated’.
Wood plaque. ‘Ann Berry by her will dated 1st October 1768 gave and bequeathed unto the Minister and Churchwardens of Kilburn for ever the sum of ten pounds ye interest of which money by her will and mind was to be applied for the putting out one Poor Girl in High Kilburn aforesaid in every year to read, write and knit’.

In the well-tended churchyard, which is still in use, you can find the following people who served the local school: – Christopher Hind erected by friends & pupils in appreciation of his high character & of his faithful works in the school & for the parish, & of Maria Hind wife of the late Christopher Hind born 5 Aug 1852 died 5 May 1933.
In loving memory of Arabella Maria headmistress of Kilburn school for 31 years & daughter of Christopher & Maria Hind died 5 Oct 1976 aged 96yrs.
In loving memory of John Hodgson 30 years schoolmaster of Kilburn who died 25 Oct 1873 aged 60yrs. Elizabeth beloved wife of the above who died 16 Aug 1853 aged 38 years. Mary Jane daughter of the above who died 18 Jan 1874 aged 20 years.

It was this John Hodgson who executed the plan for Thomas Taylor for the White Horse of Kilburn, (1854) which was dug out of the steep side of Roulston Scar and completed with a coat of lime by 30 Kilburn men in November 1857. ‘He’ is now cleaned and recoated from time to time by a small local committee. (The plan is now in the York Museum).

The 1914-1918 war memorial is unusual as it is built into a churchyard wall with an old mounting block beneath for horse riders. The names of those who lost their lives are George and Robert Easton, William Garbutt, Alfred Hayton, David Hippisley, William Kirk, William L Hall, Norman Wm Smith and Thos H Robinson. These men are also commemorated on their family gravestones in the nearby churchyard.

On one side of the village square is the Foresters Arms, possibly named because the Royal Forester lived in Kilburn, probably at the Old Hall. On the other side is the now closed Church School. If you follow Kilburn Beck which runs down the main street, you find the Hall with its coat of arms: rebuilt in the 17th century by Christopher Baynes snr, then comes the Wesleyan chapel which was built in 1838 for a growing congregation.

At the ‘Mouse Factory’, you are able to view how the oak furniture is carefully carved and worked with such precision and care then walk round the showroom to admire so many different pieces. The factory and Thompson family have 150 years of history behind them and descendants are still producing large and small items that are sold throughout the world. (See full article CFHS Journal April 2018).

Searching through the census for the 19th – 20th centuries, it was very obvious that residents moved into the parish from short distances, the furthest was a Mrs Ellis from Scotland. Very little changed with large families mainly employed in farming and all the associated jobs – cowmen, dairymaids, poultry tending, smithies, day labourers or were in domestic ‘service’ either at home or for other households. It was interesting to find in 1911 the number of women within such a small area who were either single or widowed for no apparent reason. In this census, it was also striking to note the number classified as horsemen which signified the dependence still on the animals for ploughing etc despite the introduction of tractors, thrashing machines etc. Thomas and his nephew Herbert Hardbottle were sporting dog trainers who were probably employed by the local landlords for foxhunting or the ‘big party shoots’ on the moors.

Today, farming is still prominent but most residents now travel to the nearby towns for employment; horses are now kept for riding and pony trekking the beautiful surrounding countryside; a large caravan park now lies on the outskirts of the village for the many tourists visiting the area, and other facilities have been added to accommodate the large number of visitors who come to view the White Horse, wander through the village, and visit the factory throughout the year.